Northern Ohio Live March 2005

Recently Revisited

Rita M. Grabowski

The ambiance of Grovewood Tavern & Wine Bar, situated in a residential neighborhood just north of I-90, is reminiscent of a basement rec room from decades ago, complete with knotty pine paneling and "Tiffany" swag lamps. But the capacity crowd doesn't come for the decor. The wine list is dazzling and fairly priced, the staff friendly and accommodating, and the food is miraculously good. Meals come from a kitchen that's tucked into a corner of the bar, against the front window. The young men who maneuver that line could easily transfer their skills to the galley of a submarine - possibly the only other food prep area with so litttle floor space. An evening's special of lemon sole baked in parchment arrives perfectly steamed with long, slender strands of summer squash. A well-trimmed sirloin filet with lush, well-aged flavor is served atop a mount of garlicky mashed potatoes and accompanied by asparagus spears. Desserts like raspberry torte, molten chocolate cake with an orange liqueur center, and chocolate or "blonde" waffles with vanilla ice cream prove temptations difficult to deny.